Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
